Field observations of nearshore bar formation

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The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high-energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross-shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross-shore gradients in offshore-directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope.

Original languageEnglish
JournalEarth Surface Processes and Landforms
Issue number7
Pages (from-to)1021-1032
Publication statusPublished - 2008

    Research areas

  • Faculty of Science - nearshore bars, surf zone, morphodynamics, undertow, sediment transport

ID: 8804191